Thoughts on Edinburgh, Scotland

Imagine the following: You get off an early morning flight to jump on a bus into a city you have never heard of in a country you have never been. Although you have a friend by your side, you are glued to the window as you would be in any new place. Transfixed by the green of the grass, you stare out wistfully, wanting only to be surrounded by authentic Scottish air versus alloyed Scottish steel. Then, as the bus rounds the corner, something greater, more magnificent than emerald dirt catches your eye.

There's a hill that rises majestically from the center of the city, and atop this mound is the most commanding castle you have ever seen. It sits above every building and rooftop, making use of its position of infinite surveillance. It steals your breath.

Then, before you have a chance to inhale, you see a gothic city skyline made of stone. The buildings jut up into the sky from the floor of an empty loch, reaching up like urban crags.

Welcome, friends, to Edinburgh, Scotland.

December 23, 2008
I woke up at 4:30 in the morning to the sound of London hustling by outside my window. Scotland, I remembered, I was going to Scotland.

Officially 23 and just short of hung over, I floated from England to Edinburgh in a daze. Here I found Ben, an old friend who had long ago shoved my NIX Welcome to Scotland sign into his jacket pocket. It seems I maintain my tropical island pace no matter where I am in the world.

We went to his place where I dropped off my tumor of a backpack and settled in to watch an episode of Top Gear - like, the best British show in the world. Do I like cars? No. Will I ever? No. Can I watch a show comprised of a silly men, vehicles and insane challenges? Yes. On with the show.

When that was done, we headed off into town where I got acquainted with The Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is just longer than an actual mile by 107 yards, starting at the gates of Holyrood Palace and ending at the stone walls of Edinburgh Castle. The Royal Mile is lined with shops and museums, churches, courtyards and breweries, and provides the perfect environment for a leisurely stroll.

We walked up to Edinburgh Castle and though cold as it was, I stood there for as long as possible. I was in the presence of gradure and power and history, and all I could do was take a photo.

Still in awe, we walked down a side street to Frankensteins - a Frankenstein themed church-turned-pub with the pulpit as the DJ station. I couldn't believe such a place existed. Eccentric and yet full of a soul that wasn't pretentious. I was already falling in love with Edinburgh.

Following a pint of Bulmers cider, Ben and I headed next door to the Elephant House, a place that prides itself for being the birthplace of the infamous Harry Potter. Indeed, it was in this cafe that JK Rowling sat by a bookshelf writing The Sorcerer's Stone and The Chamber of Secrets. Newly divorced and unbelievably poor, Rowling calculated that it was cheaper to sit in The Elephant House with a cup of coffee than it was to heat her apartment (ironically, she is now more wealthy that the literal Queen of England). It was here, next to JK Rowlings table, that I ordered my first meal in Scotland.

December 24, 2008
Christmas Eve on my second day in Edinburgh. What better activity to do than a free walking tour of the city? We hit main sights such as St. Giles' Cathedral, The Heart of Midlothian (the dirtiest spot in all of Edinburgh as all Scots spit on it as they walk past), Greyfriars Kirkyard (graveyard), Grassmarket, and the inspiration for 'Hogwarts, School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.'

Along with these sights, we heard stories that I wasn't expecting to hear. Turns out that there was a real citizen of Edinburgh who's life story inspired the creation of the infamous Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde!

After the tour, Ben and I roamed the Scottish version of the German Christmas Market, and then wandered over to The Standing Order for a few pints and a basket of curry chips (french fries with curry on top). The beer was amazing, the chips a little less so.

December 25, 2008
Merry Christmas from Scotland! It would be my first Christmas away from home and though I missed my family, I was also very excited to be spending it abroad. Ben and I got ready and headed over to Tim and Rebekah's house (two of Ben's friends) where there was a grand Christmas feast waiting. I was absolutely delighted to be invited, considering that I really did appear out of no where. Through their generosity, the spirit of Christmas ebbed on.

The meal was absolutely fabulous with the desert a perfect finish. We then settled down to watch The Queen on TV. And I mean, The Queen. Apparently, The Queen always makes a short speech on Christmas that gets broadcast over the airwaves. It was cute!

By the time we returned home, I was stuffed and exhausted, the nights wine and festivities encouraging me to slumber. I said my Christmas prayers and didn't wake up till noon.

December 26, 2008
Boxing Day. I have never participated in Boxing Day, or been aware of it for that matter, until this trip to Scotland. Boxing Day is also known as the "Day of Goodwill," which is based off the tradition of giving gifts to the less fortunate (ie. your service workers). Of course, being the consumers that we are, Boxing Day has evolved into a shopping holiday in which we spurge on post-Christmas sales. Go figure.

Instead of buying into consumerism, Tim played the bagpipes for me and gave both Ben and I a miniature (and dare I say, failed) lesson. Come on, you didn't think I was going to leave Scotland without playing around with their defining instrument, now did you? And you got to admit, it kind of looks like I know what I'm doing.

We then proceeded to climb up Authors Seat - an extinct volcano sitting on the edge of the city. The trek wasn't as gruesome as one might imagine a volcanic hike to be, and in fact, it was rather pleasant. The entire walk up took about half an hour, and once on top, the sweat was instantly worth it. There, before my eyes, was a panoramic and breathtaking view of Edinburgh.

Up here, above it all, we flew kites and had a picnic until our appendages begged for warmth. Glad for a reason to imbibe, we headed down to the nearest pub and had a pint. The rest of the night was spent curled up on a couch, watching Top Gear. :)

December 27, 2008
It was a beautiful day, again, for it seems God likes to grant these moments of spacial purity simply because he knows it makes me happy. I try my hardest to take advantage of his generosity.

So, it was a day out alone in the city for me, wandering around in the way that I do, discovering how this road is actually and mysteriously also connected to that road. Surprise.

I walked the Royal mile again, people watching and sight seeing, enjoying the fleeting feeling of sun against skin. I allowed myself to indulge in street performers and tourists shops, cafes and monuments. Eventually, I wandered around to the National Museum of Scotland (where entrance is free), and spent the rest of my day learning about Scottish history.

December 28, 2008
Ben took me on a brief walking tour of Leith, the port of Edinburgh that has had a reputation for inspiring such works of fiction as Trainspotting - a movie with an ongoing theme of heroin addiction and drug escapades. Ironically, Leith took on a whole new appeal for me after I found this out, being that Trainspotting had actually turned out to be a fairly good film (starring Ewan McGregor and his penis, if I remember correctly).

Of course, Leith isn't the same as it was back in 1996, so our morning walk was done safely and soudly. The harbor was gentle and the bridges serene, the boats were in their docks and the sea gulls were annoying as usual. Eventually, Ben and I entered Cameo Bar to have a light brunch by Scottish standards (which wasn't light at all).

Upon returning home, we played a heated game of Monopoly with Ben's friend, Silje, who had just flown in from Norway the night before. I will only fight to the death while playing RISK (the game of world domination) and so I gladly handed what was left of my winnings to the losing player (Silje) and resigned myself to my book.

December 29, 2008
This would be my last night in Edinburgh, and I refused to let it go without a fight. Silje, Ben and I ate haggis for lunch, which was a better dish than expected, and headed home to prepare for the nights activities.

Although Ben and Silje would be going over to Tim and Rebekah's house for another Christmas dinner, I would be heading into the city to participate in Edinburgh's torchlight procession. December 29th is the start of Hogmanay (the Scots word for the last day of the year), a festival that celebrates the coming of a new year. Little did I know when I planned my trip, but Edinburgh is host to some of the largest new years celebrations around. You want to watch a ball drop in New York City? I'd rather watch a hilltop in Scotland blaze.

The Torchlight Procession was the most amazing experience of my trip, an unexpected event that moved me to tears from the extravagance and beauty of it all. So incredible was this night that it deserves it's own post. Fear not, it won't take me another two weeks to update, but the footage I have will be well worth the wait.

When the procession ended, I dragged my feet home knowing that my time in Scotland was coming to an end. The city itself had helped to feed my imagination. History and preservation, culture and ambiance, all the things that I have never seen captivated in one place before. Though I flew off to Ireland early the next morning, I new that between then and the rest of my life, Edinburgh and I would meet again. It's one of those places, those few few places that captures your heart and begs you to return.